James and I have often chatted over waves both in and out of the ocean. When I see him in the sea, he’s often riding a bigger board, always chasing the bigger sets. If it’s working down the way, he’ll often paddle out there. Not one to follow the crowds, James Holley is one of those surfers who looks to a different side of surfing.
In December I followed him down south on a mission. He was set on riding The Cribbar.
Filled with nervous apprehension, questions and anticipation travelled with us. The surf was big enough. The wind light but what would conditions be like later? Will it be busy? Will anyone else paddle out? Will said he’d be there, but will he? What will the new board be like?
Whilst doubts and indecision are pushed back; they try to push forward. Experience and history can take hold.
The last trip, the first time he’d paddled out had its moments. A snapped leash left him in a perilous position. This is jeopardy at the best of times but just a short time before, James had busted his shoulder doing a crazy, some would say irresponsible, tomb stoning jump. Luckily Will was there to assist his long, nonstop swim back to the shore. A swim which according to his watch and the relentless rip registered at 3 miles.
Arriving at The Cribbar, the sets pushing into Little Fistral looked daunting. Big, heavy close-outs were hitting the sand bar. The rocks looked ominous and this was the way out and in unless you were carried further down around The Headland to Fistral proper. The wind was up too and cross-shore, a marked contrast to the clean conditions of Croyde this morning.
We walked up to meet The Cribbar. Greeted by Marie, Rob, with his daughter and Will, the talk turned to ‘what do think?’ Will had been watching for some time. He had arrived by himself and had been contemplating what to do. Rob arrived later and his experience and expertise was critical to paddling out.
I knew Will from Croyde. We often see each other in the sea. He co-owns and runs a surf school, Surf South West and whilst he’s a very competent surfer I never put him down as a big wave surfer. Seeing him now, I had a newfound respect for him, as I do for any big wave rider. To me, they are a breed apart. I didn’t know Rob. He was mild in his speech, friendly and open to saying hello. An experience that not all surfers are so willing to give. James’ respect for him was apparent from our chats on the way down but whilst his experience was evident, it wasn’t until later after looking on his feed that I began to understand why.
Time was spent watching and considering the conditions. Small tides meant the waves weren’t breaking far off the headland but then the bigger sets were rolling in. You didn’t want to get caught inside. Consequences of that had already been felt.
After much deliberation and a sun setting low in the winter sky, a decision was made. The Cribbar would have to wait.
